July THINGS TO DO Seattle Area (PNW) revised with Denver notes 060826 _________________________________ SHRUBS AND TREE'S Inspect for: * cankers and swollen area's * damaged and crossing branches * dead, off-color, leaves and twigs * guy wires that need to be loosened or removed ---------- * routine pruning & thinning * prune/thin flowering shrubs as blooms die off * Cut back spent roses to 5-leaf branchlets *identify the plants you intend to prune * follow your local county extension pruning guidelines _________________________________ Lawns: Mowing: Some irrigated lawns may need mowing every 7-10 days. - otherwise a 14 day cycle should work. Lawns that grow very little can go every 3-4 weeks. If such lawns are weedy, the weeds will need mowing. Is there an alternative to regularly mowing the grass? I don't know. It depends on the site and aesthetic tastes of the owner. When you decide to mow it after a long while, you will have a big job to do, and you may have to remove the clippings instead of mulching them. You will save little if any time by not regularly mowing your lawn. Also weeds of all kinds may proliferate if allowed to go to seed. However, I wonder if there is an alternative in the grass family. Personally, I find pastures attractive. Victor Steinbrueck, the designer of the space needle, was once a customer of ours. He would apparently have interesting conversations with his wife over whether or not to mow the lawn. We followed his wifes instructions. Lawns with moss, clover, buttercup, lawn daisies - can contibute to healthier bio-diversity in urban settings, and are attractive when they are meadowlike in appearance. I rarely see such lawns, though. For mowing, I like to use a well adjusted and sharpened hand push mower for relatively flat, simple area's. It is a natural mulcher so throw your bag away. fertilizer: Not recommended during summer months. ----------
Weed Control

*weed & feed is never recommended.

* try to identify the weeds you want to control

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* Spot treatments of household vinegar can control some weeds.

* apply using a spray bottle or hand pump
* for non-selective control of dandelions, many other weeds, and weedlike grasses.

* it does not work on buttercup or ground ivy
* DO NOT USE OVER ROOT ZONES OF TREES AND SHRUBS
* additional applications may be needed, or ineffective
* target the weed
* apply with moderation as you would on a garden salad
* palm-sized spots of grasskill will recover

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* safe products based on cinnamin, orange oil, etc -
are available, & approved by the epa and
many states.
* read the label carefully and follow the instructions

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Watering: lawns will need about 1" of water per week that is about 1/2 to 3/4 gal per sq. ft per week In general let the lawn dry out a little between each watering. - roughly 7-10 minutes, 3 times a week, per 500 sq. ft. for pop-up sprayers and sprinklers - rotaries or oscillators may need twice as long - adjust time as nescessary Denver water restrictions are between 10 am and 6pm; Even numbered addresses can be watered thurs and sun, odd addresses wed and sat; commercial and multi-unit (3 or more) residences tue and fri. Perennials and shrubs / tree's can be watered by hose any day but not after 10am or before 6 pm.

For lawn renovation, moss, or cranefly problems, see:
Lawn Care Tips

For monitoring shrub and tree pest problems, see:
IPM for July - Seattle Area / PNW

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Beds: Routine weeding & cleanup. Cut back spent roses to 5-leaf branchlets Transplant leek, garlic, potatoe, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprout Sow lettuce, spinach, radish, carrots, beets, snap beans Fertilize annuals and perennials as needed

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MULCH

- helps suppress weeds and makes them easier to remove

- protects soil from compaction and erosion due to rain

- protects sensitive plants against cold damage

* Add mulch to beds if needed. More than 2" total depth of mulch is not recommended

* Compost is a mulch containing significant amounts of decomposed organic matter

* Compost, leaves, and moss, are effective soil builders

* Leaves provide good cover for bare-dirt beds and slopes

* Leaves left in beds can be raked up if they become unacceptably unsightly after at least some of the mass breaks down; or, till them back into the bed in the spring, or add more mulch later over the leaves.

* Keep mulch away from trunks of shrubs and trees.

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Compost

* For garden area's and closely planted beds, Compost is a good mulch to improve soil quality and provide organic nutrients.

* top soil/compost mix generally seems like a good product. i like the product available at Ace Hardware.

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* For open bed area's, play area's, trails;

* Arbor chips work well - they can be applied more thickly than other mulches, but will be more time consuming to apply, and variable in quality.

* play chips can also be used as mulch but it will have a different appearance and color you may not prefer

* Coarse bark mulch will last quite a bit longer than finer bark

* Dyed wood chip mulch if used should be certified not to contain shredded pallets before using it.